The Tough Life

Yet another beautiful stretch of hiking. So much good stuff happened here, I can hardly recall it all. There were mountains, there were waterfalls, there was a zero day in a full 16 person hut to wait out the rain. There was another American woman who takes as much pride in peeing standing up as me. There was candy, lots of candy, even some hubba hubba hiker eye candy. There was a misty rainbow morning and a few more scratches and scabs to validate my name. I met some rad people in this section, rad people with great life stories I hope to see again somewhere around the world someday in the future. 

The trail ends in Boyle, where most hikers have resupply packages waiting for pickup at the outdoor center. Well slap my knee and call me Mary, because who should be waiting for our arrival but the famed Crusaders Rugby team with a hand full of All Blacks. My hormones sure have been hungry and my shame went out the window at puberty. I let down my hair and flirted so graciously to the shirtless athletes. You know, I think it's important to equalize gender biases, and I was happy to give these men obnoxious catcalls, almost as it were my responsibility.

Watch out ladies, he's going to be a heart breaker!!! 

Some great locals took us in and offered us showers, a place to charge our devices, beer and feed. Matthew, my FAVORITE 10 year old, even toured me around on his 4wheeler before the backyard bonfire. I couldn't ask for anything more. Thank you to the moon and back. I miss you already! TA hikers, I highly recommend meeting up with my friends at the Alpine Log Cabin in Boyle. Check out there Facebook page here!

I Didn't Forget

Wellington is cool. Quote my profound words please. 

I was so excited to leave the North, that I forgot to write about the most amazing dinner ever. Susi and Petr made friends way back on the Wanganui River with a family from this Windy City. Lucky me got to join their invite to a proper barbecue at one of the most beautiful homes on the planet. Sylvie, James and Belinda hosted us, as we shared stories of life and adventure. We even went for a quick backyard hike to view the capital. Oh, the delights of a delicious home cooked feast! A gift... A true gift of inspiration and encouragement. People seem to move me more than the places I visit. I hope you all know how much I love you and how you are the ones who keep me pushing forward.

Raindrops On Roses

It was hard. It was cold. It was wet. I was tired. I was grumpy. I was wet.

I needed this day to be over. Nothing was particularly horrible, I was just off. We are allowed these struggles, from time to time, especially with all the good moments I've acquired. I remember the second I saw her in the driveway... She smiled and waved me down to the lodge. "Go take a shower and put your clothes in the wash. We had a wedding last night, so help yourselves to some leftovers, too. Dinner is on at our house in an hour... No, this isn't the B&B from your map, we don't charge a thing for you trampers."

Sally and John own a giant outdoor wilderness education center right on trail and have been taking care of the TA hikers from the beginning. I can't describe it. I don't know what to say. When your miserable day ends up to be the best. There were 10 of us at the dinner table, each given an ice cold beer to wash down the mint risotto and meaty cheesy pasta dream. They were experts on the Tararua Mountain range, too, and helped us all plan the next tough section. Thank you, Sally and John, from the top of my heart.

Magic

I don't want to write too much here, because part of the magic is being completely surprised by what is in store. The Wild Bird Cache blew my mind. People told me that my faith in humanity would be restored by this hike, and I can fully confirm that they were correct. Strangers, complete strangers, have gone out of their way to support us hikers, often times without even making an appearance. Support is too insignificant a word, but it will have to do. Thank you Randy, Cathy and Bandit, not just for your generosity, but also for teaching us how to be outstanding humans.

Keeps On Getting Better

What a great day! Hiking towards the Sisters, I ran into the Liverstrong couple, Julia and Philip, two other hikers part of the mYAMAdventure program. They were hard to miss with that stellar Yama tent pitched in the shade. We first met at the ADZPCTKO (kick off) some four months earlier. What a trip to see them again as they close in on the border. Thanks for the Black Velvet pick me up! I truly feel part of this community even if I've only hiked a quarter of what they've accomplished. 

A half mile later, I got the surprise of my life with the pop up trail angels, Chef and Jerry Pan. As soon as I arrived at their decked out RV, they asked if I wanted a cappuccino. What? Five minutes later and I had three mouthwatering flaxseed wild huckleberry pancakes in front of me covered with bananas, toasted walnuts, syrup and BUTTER. Yum! I stuck around for for a few hands of Texas Holdem, and what do you know, lunch was served. Barbecued chicken finished off in the pressure cooker to make the most delicious burrito of my life. Did I mention the spanish rice with fresh mango salsa? These people are my heroes. I fell in love that day with their food and generosity. I was only able to hike some 15 miles, but the company was worth being a little behind. All part of the experience.

And Thy Name Shall Be....

We were unsuccessful hitching into the Dinsmore's Hiker Haven after our first 27 mile day and had to get creative with a truck bed sleeping arrangement. I was too tired, cold and cranky to eat that night, and had the worst night of sleep, worrying about sweet nothings. Hitching in the morning was surprisingly difficult, too. I managed to score two cold beers, a few smokes (gross), and some peanut butter Oreos before our new friend Mike offered a ride. He dropped us off at the Der Baring Store, where none other than the Dinsmore's were munching away on their Sunday breakfast. After a warm hello and smile of relief, the first thing out of my mouth was "is there anyway I can get a Bloody Mary in here?" Meanwhile, my legs were so gashed, scraped and cut up from falling on average 5 times a day, it sure looked like I could use one (or that someone had poured the red drink all over me). Right then and there, the Dinsmore's gave me my trail name. Here on out, I shall be called Bloody Mary, a name I love and take pride in.

Making it official... Jerry initiating my new name with a nice cold Bloody Mary. 

It's incredibly difficult to understand what exactly a "trail angel" is until you get to experience it first hand. I'm deeply moved, reflecting on the generosity and love I experienced from the Dinsmore's. I feel honored to be a part of the PCT community that they've supported over the years. A lifetime of gratitude sent your way, Andrea and Jerry! 

What is the Hiker Haven exactly? Well, there are warm beds for hikers, plenty of grass to set up camp if you prefer, a private laundry room with loner clothes right next to the shower and toilet fully stocked to help alleviate your hiking odors. Jerry summed it up as a spot in the mountains for resting, but it was a lot more than that to me... It was a place to call home and people to call family. I love you guys! 

Speaking of great people, I forgot to shout out Rachel and Rob over at Joe's Island Music, for helping us get back on trail after taking the wrong path near Cutthroat Pass. You guys are the best!