I took the 1:30 ferry back to mainland Iceland and made my way to the darling village of Vík. Camped in a parking lot tourist hub of tents and fell asleep to the sweet lullaby sound of cars racing down the Ring Road. There must be at least one hundred others here, surrounded by people, but no one says hello. Woke up for the sunrise. Pinks, oranges and purples bouncing off the sea. Up the coastal mountain, down to the black sand beach of divinity. I made an attempt to climb a cliff and reach the lighthouse, unsuccessfully.

Onward to Skógafoss, the spectacular cascade Apple Computer uses as a screensaver. I hiked over the people and continued past one hundred more equally stunning waterfalls until the sun set. Pitched my tent way off trail, not something I can condone in a permitted park, but I just needed to be alone. For my final day, someone sent me perfect weather. Put on my shorts to cross a rock solid ice cap in the early morning light. What do you know, a friendly arctic fox joined the trail to say hello.... or maybe he really meant goodnight?

Today, I completed my Iceland Traverse. I walked from the Northern Most point to the very South. I hiked it alone. There's something anticlimactic about this finish line. I can't pretend to be excited or feel overwhelmed. I saw a beautiful country and I proved to myself that I am just fine out here, all on my own.