I made it to þórsmörk by 10:00 am. Sour... Search and Rescue told me I wouldn't be able to continue on to Skógar. They picked 6 people off the mountain, two seriously injured, 1 hypothermic. Zero visibility and furious winds. I tried to explain where I had just come from and that I'm not a regular tourist. I tried to convince them I was a "professional hiker" who only had 15 miles to complete her solo traverse of this beautiful land; 15 miles which would take me roughly 5 hours. Maybe if I spoke in kilometers they would understand? No problem. Safety first. I'll come up with another plan.

I downed 3 beers for $30 while waiting for a bus to take my deflated soul to the closest town. I looked at the map and found Iceland's REAL southernmost point: the Westman Islands. Jumped on a ferry to ride out the storm. It seemed silly to sit for several days in my cold wet tent, eating ramen in the overpriced camping lot. What a genius idea!

Wellcome to the land of Puffins! I'm sure most people who set off to Iceland are aware that these beautiful creatures inhabit the lands, but I only had 10 days to plan my traverse. What a glorious shock to stumble upon a breeding cliff. Oh me, oh my, it's beautiful here. Wonderful. Superb. A dream. I'm so happy I listened to my little heart and followed its direction. What a gift this mini storm detour is turning out to be.

On August 18, in my tiny island cabin, I had an eureka moment, a new life goal: I know what comes next, I'll circumnavigate the globe! I couldn't sleep that night, writing out a million thoughts, plans, ideas and concerns. Who knows when I will be able to start this trip or how I can make it come true, the only thing I can say for certain is that it will happen, OH BABY I PROMISE YOU! The sun returned the next morning, and I took a ferry back to finish my hike.