How Do You Do, Mr. Caribou?

Pyramid Lake

I woke up exactly seven minutes before the rain came pouring down on me. It was 4:55 a.m. and I had just enough time to pack up all my belongings and get on with my morning hike. Cold and wet... I started my three-breath-yawns and felt my eyes rolling to the back of my head and closing on me as I inched up a six mile incline. Full exhaustion. I contemplated walking back to the road and spending another day in Bonners Ferry... Oh, the thought of a warm blanket while watching daytime soap operas never sounded so good. The rain subsided by 8:30 and I was ready for a morning nap in the middle of the trail. It's important to listen to your body and take a break here or there to keep your spirits high. I warmed up a pot of hot chocolate and was greeted by the sun. I can do this... One foot in front of the other... This is what I signed up for.  

What a beautiful day it turned out to be. Near the top of Parker Peak, I took a lovely lunch break to dry out my socks and munch down on a cheese and chip burrito. What do you know, a giant grey-white humped beast visited me... This was no moose, no elk, no dear... It could only be a caribou and just 100 feet from my rest spot! No photos for proof, but I know what I saw and relished in its company.

The hike ended at the gorgeous Pyramid Lake campground. All alone, I was as happy as a reindeer... Part of me wished I could have shared the day with a companion, but a larger part of me felt proud and accomplished to have pulled through on such a high note. 

Fruit of the Gods

1. Rubus parviflorus, commonly called thimbleberry, salmonberry, and snow bramble, is a species of Rubus, native to western and northern North America, and the Great Lakes region. Wikipedia

How does one begin to describe perfection? Well, I first tasted this fruit in Washington nearly a year ago and have fantasized of it since. I've dreamt of a giant claw foot bathtub filled to the brim with thimbleberries, wondering if I would ever see them again. That day has come. Hiking through northern Idaho on a painfully soggy morning, I saw the beaming red berry burst across the trail and nearly lost my mind in pure bliss. 

Everything about it is perfect. Let's start with its color. I'm imagining a snow princess dressed in a crimson velvet cloak, and I'm certain it was dyed this color from the juice of this berry. The deepest, most vibrant blood red imaginable. Have you ever felt like you can taste a color?

Devine texture - they are so delicate that they roll into your fingers at the slightest touch, producing a single drop of juice in your hand to stain it for a lasting memory. Soft velvet. And the flavor... OH, the flavor! The sweetest perfect sour. Sometimes, I try to collect ten berries to pop in my mouth at once for a full explosion of taste. I go on and on in my head, wondering if this is an exaggeration, and then I eat one more to confirm that all I write here is completely true. Grandmothers and chefs around the world spend so much time creating recipes and flavor combinations to bring joy to our faces, but this fruit needs no altercation. It, alone, can make a grown man cry with pleasure.

You know what the best part about the wild snow bramble is? I usually find them growing on steep, rocky, sun exposed inclines, when I'm exhausted and frustrated. Nothing is better than a taste of divinity to ease the struggle. 

If I was wrongly accused of a heinous crime and sentenced to death, my last meal on earth would include one pound of this goddess fruit.

BORDER PATROL!!!

(on the Mexican border after completing my PCT hike) 

What a day this turned out to be. It was cold and wet - a nice treat to keep the bugs away on my many many miles of ups. I got so mad at my Dad. You see, he sent me off on this hike with an iPod Shuffle full of his favorite music. Hundreds of depressing country western songs to help me with my recent breakup, and this was the day I decided to listen. Are you kidding me? Tears poured harder than the rain when Sinéad O'Connor came on... At least it helped me hike fast and hard. Thanks Pops!

When I reached my last pass and ridge walk, a lightning storm approached. It was close. Too close. Close enough to make me run. It's hard to predict when these electrical storms will hit, but the last place you want to be is on top of a fully exposed mountain. Naturally, the sun poured down just over the pass. I felt fantastic and strong, so I made and early dinner and decided to hike on for a 27 mile day. This would put me in perfect position for a light road walk into town for tomorrow's breakfast. Yes!

All was going according to plan until I saw a new storm system approaching. Black clouds and lightning filled the sky. I made it to my goal and quickly set up shelter just before the trail head. The rain crashed down as I snuggled into my sleeping bag at 10:00. Suddenly, I heard a car park and saw a flashlight pointed in my tarp. "Put your hands outside of the tent where I can see them and slowly exit."

I was hardly dressed when the Border Patrol officer approached and had me hug a nearby tree to keep out of the rain. I asked if I could get my jacket, but was denied the request for "his protection and mine." I waited about an hour for his backup to come so they could search my belongings. Shit... I didn't even have an open bottled of breakfast whiskey for them to find. At this point, everything is getting wet: clothes, sleeping bag, electronics. I was allowed to sit in the back of the truck while they ran my record. To be perfectly honest, though, I was all smiles and happy as a clam in the excitement of a new trail story. 

When my record came back clean, I asked for a hitch into town... seeing as he got all my belongings wet and it could be a cold dangerous night. Cha-Ching!!! On the ride into Eureka, he reminded me that he was just doing his duty, keeping us Americans protected, my tax dollars supported this safety service, etc. I smiled silently in the back seat, rolling my eyes at the thought of how dangerous and threatening I must have appeared. Ha! Really? Was all that necessary? I'm not complaining, because I was thrilled to get a ride into town where I'd find a warm dry bed. He asked how this experience compared with he Border Patrol near Mexico when I finished the PCT last year. Ha ha ha! Again, I didn't say much, but giggled as I remembered celebrating in champaign and taking photos with the BP down south! 

The Silverado Motel

Bill, the cook, was covering graveyard shift when I stumbled in like a wet dog and he accidental gave me a key to an occupied room. You should have seen the look on all of our faces when I opened the door. This day just keeps getting better! It was nearly midnight and Bill felt bad so he fired up the grill to make a peace offering; the most delicious, juiciest hamburger any hiker would kill for and two cold beers on the house. He goes on my favorite people list, not just for the food, but for the amazing company, too.

Jo let me do a load of laundry in the morning, and then Barb, the bartender, inspired me with her wisdom, stories and kindness. More to add to the favorite people list. Did I mention the sheets and towels? The softest, most comfy fabric of any trail motel I've ever seen. Again and again, I'm reminded that storms end with sun. If you ride it out with a smile, you'll be surprised how good everything works out on its own.

I've Got 99 Problems And Mosquitos Are All Of Them

My only complaint, my only problem in life... bug bites. I knew they were going to be bad, but I couldn't have possibly comprehended the magnitude of torture I'd find on the PNT. After my first night of cowboy camping, I counted 58 bites on my face alone. That was while sleeping with a bug net over my face. It is getting to the point where I question continuing... Well, I only question this at the end of the day and early morning when they swarm in packs of 20,000. 

I hate hiking in pants, they bite through my wool long underwear, it's too hot for a fully zipped sleeping bag and I'm using a tarp for shelter (rather than a fully enclosed tent). 100% DEET seems to be doing something, but YIKES! that chemical compound has already melted the labeling off from its toxic potency. A lovely couple suggested a new eucalyptus/lemon oil product, which I'm now in the market for (they also shared an ice cold Carona on top of the Webb Mountain Look Out Tower). 

My grand idea is to find a bridal store that sells tulle by the acre. I'll dye it orange fading into a deep red to match the sunset and double layer it for added protection. I'll sew myself a cape, a gown, a veil... Anything to protect me from these blood thirsty suckers.  

I know I need to look on the bright side of things and stay positive. I mean, come on, if these bug bites are my only problems in life, I've got it pretty good. No bills, no obligations, no stress, no anxieties, no health issues... I'll take the itchy bumps over the former any day.

P.S. If you have any tips, please respond!!! 

Glacier National Park

Photo credit: Josh "Monkey Leg" Stewart

... is AMAZING! 

I have no expectations for everyone to attempt a thru-hike, but please get out into nature and experience some of this stuff!

The PNT runs from the NE corner of Glacier directly across the park. Almost 60 miles of untouched beauty. Take 5 days, take 10 days, I don't care, just get out there and enjoy it. Monkey Leg had a few days off and hiked with me across heaven. There was some rain, a small snow patch, a perfect swimming hole, a wrong turn and plenty of breathtaking waterfalls. 

I still can't believe we made it in 2.5 days. This section passes through the most delightful "town" of Polbridge, where one must indulge in the famed baked goods and cold beer. Naturally, it provided more lifelong friends and stories to share. I was surprised to meet 7 other thru-hikers, as this trail was said to be a bit more remote, but am thankful to know that I'm in close company. Can't wIt to see what will come next.

Leaving on a Jet Train

I'm off. No phone, few rules, and over 1,000 miles of experience to come. I took a three day train from San Jose, California to East Glacier, Montana. There is something perfectly romantic about riding the rails. Almost like a symbolic voyage to start anew. 

Sometimes, you have to be brave enough to break your own heart.

It didn't take long for me to find my first Bloody Mary and make lifelong friends on board. On the second night, Violet, a nine year old beyond her years, shared a blanket, trail mix and stories with me in the observation car until her midnight stop in Spokane. That girl, I swear. Then there was Kandi... We only had 30 minutes together before my stop, but when you meet an angel, you remember her forever. You touched me deeply and I'm blessed to know you. 

A new hiker friend, Monkey Leg, met me at the station where we found one more PNT'er, Free. What an amazing start... A ride to the ranger station and trail head with two new amazing friends. It still baffles me how perfectly life works out when you forget about your worries and take a leap. 

How To Save Your Trekking Poles

OH NO!!! I just walked thousands of miles and my trekking pole tips are completely busted! Well good news, folks. There's an easy fix!

I don't know if the image above is clear enough for you to see, but my Leki trekking pole tips lost 1.5 inches from hiking the PCT. I knew that Leki sold replacements, so I didn't worry too much on the trail and figured I would fix them before my next big hike.

The tips are designed to slide off with a wrench when they become too warn down to function. Unfortunately, my tips got so much use that they seemed impossible to remove. I even took them to my local REI store and the backpacking expert regretfully told me that I would have to buy new poles.

I went home and found a hiking forum that suggested soaking the poles in hot water to allow the plastic to expand. Cha-ching! I boiled a pot of water, turned off the stove and soaked them for 15 minutes. They slid right off, no wrench needed. This little trick saved me a few hundred dollars and made me feel resourceful and cool. I hope it might help you, too.

GEAR LIST

I know, I know... what kind of Hiking Blog am I without a gear list?

I would consider my gear style a mixture of ultra-light and obnoxiously heavy... Two extremes can still create balance, right? For example, I'm packing a 10 ounce tarp as my shelter, but then there's that 4 pound camera. My first aid kit consists of a needle and some Neosporin, however, I like to collect rocks when I hike. I'm pretty sure I'm still clocking in under 13 pounds base weight, so I think I'm doing something right. (That's right, you can clock pounds).

I don't own a scale so I can't give you the exact wight, but here is a list of EVERYTHING I will start out with on the PNT. My theory is to go as light as possible so when you build some strength on the trail, you can afford to carry as many extras as comfortable... such as mascara and antlers.

• Backpack: Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest Cuben Pack (with a trash compactor liner), trimmed straps
• Shelter: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Flat Tarp with Aluminum and Titanium Stakes
• Therm-a-Rest ZLite Sleeping Pad (cut down to save weight)
• Sleeping Bag: Western Mountaineering 20 Degree Alpinelite
• Kitchen: MSR Stove, Fuel, Mini Bic Lighter, Titanium Pot, Titanium Spork, Sawyer Squeeze Mini, Platypus Pouch, 2 Water Bottles, Ursack S29 and Scentless Liner
• Clothing Carried: Smartwool Long Underwear, Darn Tough Knee Socks, Darn Tough Short Socks, Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Down Jacket, Mammut Long Sleeve Base Layer, Marmot Precip Rain Jacket, Mouse Works Beanie (with animal ears!), Hanky (cut in half), Fleece Gloves ($0.50 from the gas station), Bedrock Sandals, Bug Net
• Clothing Worn: Salomon XR Mission Trail Runners, Superfeet Green Insoles, Dirty Girl Gators, Darn Tough Short Socks, Nike Pro Running Shorts, Goodwill Cotton Shirt with Sleeves Cut Off, Sports Bra, Tilley Hat, Two Hair Ties
• Miscellaneous: Leki Cressida Cork Trekking Poles (with duct tape wrapped around for repairs), Compass, Printed Maps Double Sided, PNT Data Book, Small Swiss Army Knife, Bear Mace, Hyperlite Mountain Gear Stuff Sacks x4
• Toiletries/First Aid: Toothbrush (cut in half), Mini Toothpaste, Dental Floss Spindle, Hand Sanitizer, Mini Sunscreen, 100% Deet, Biodegradable Wet Wipes, Diva Cup, Sewing Needle, Ibuprofen, Neosporin, Moleskin, Second Skin Bandage, Tenacious Tape, Ziplock Bags
• Electronics: Black Diamond Headlamp, Nikon DSLR D600 Camera and Charger, IPad Mini (with GPS capabilities) and Charger/Adapter, IPod Shuffle
• Extras: Father's Prom Photo, Crystal (best friend gave me from India), Ceremonial Cigarette From a Shaman in Peru, Pin of the President of Laos

It's That Time Again

Time to take off into nature and hike like a maniac through the beautiful wilderness of the United States of AMERICA! From what I've read, it will be a completely different experience compared with the PCT. This hike is going to kick my butt and teach me some pretty special lessons. I'm in need of change and am up for the challenge!

I just dusted off papa's old atlas and got some books in the mail. I'm in full prep mode and couldn't be more excited for these next 1,200 miles. Wish me luck because I'm going to need it!

So happy to be back! - Bloody Mary

Post Hike Blues

We've all been warned about the post-hike blues once the trail ends, but nothing can quite prepare you for the full onset of sorrow you experience. It doesn't make sense, right? I mean you're emerging out of this unspeakable beauty, you have countless new friends, you're in the best shape of your life and you can now open a beer bottle with one eye-socket. Meanwhile, you find yourself in tears... constantly. What could be so bad?

I think there is this ironic feeling of being alone. Imagine that. On trail, I could go days without seeing a single human, yet I felt like an intimate part of a community. I joined a new family. Even if I didn't see them, I could estimate how far a hiker was ahead of me by seeing a shoe print. We were all part of something huge. It came to an end on the Mexican Border.

I also think there is a physical reaction our bodies go through. We must be releasing 5 billion endorphins an hour on the trail. Once you go home, you want to sleep 20 hours a day for 3 weeks straight while eating the fattiest foods imaginable. And you do it. Or, at least I did it. Probably not a good idea.

What's my advice for future hikers?

1. Expect it and embrace it! Just know that depression is common after a hike and ride it like a big fat weather storm on trail. You remember how good it feels when the sun emerges.
2. Let your peeps know what your going through. Come on, they are all so proud of your accomplishment already and most likely, they will want to learn more and continue to support you.
3. Reach out to your trail pals... they're probably feeling the same way and nothing is better than a little confirmation that you are not crazy while you both get to talk about whats going on.
4. Continue exercising... laziness and bad food is fine when you're hiking a marathon a day, but can really bring you down in your old routine.
5. Go for another hike. Duh!