Hey Ho, NOBO

One of the cool factors about hiking SOBO, is that I get to cross paths with all the hikers who will be finishing their journey on the Canadian border. Up in the Northern Cascades, I would go for days without seeing another human. The solitude has been fantastic, but there is no better energy boost on a hard uphill than sharing a few words and smiles with these hikers. I finally started to run into the NOBO's in central Washington: Happy-Harry-Hungry-Humans about to finish the journey I just began. You can just feel their accomplishment and share in their pride. These guys have almost seen it all.

Trail towns (or gas stations) have been an absolute delight. What a wonderful opportunity to take off your shoes, sip on a Bloody Mary or a few beers while stuffing your stomach in great company. My biggest struggle is packing up and hiking out. The Aardvark Express in Snoqualmie Pass blew my mind. Bacon egg spinach wrap drizzled with honey? WHAT??? A little trail break with Carrot, Twinkle and Crispies made my day. Rooming up with Milestone, Pockets, Grapenuts and Prom Date in White Pass was something to remember. I miss you already! Finally meeting Bear Claw and Dirt Monger was a joy. Camping with Young Grasshopper at Lava Springs made me realize that there may just be something to carrying a stove... still dreaming about the hot cocoa you shared with me. So many trail names, so many stories, and so much more to come.

Bloody Mary number two

It's Gettin Hot In Here

I stumbled upon a women laying flat in the middle of the trail high on a ridge, wearing her tent as a blanket late one hot afternoon. Her husband explained that she collapsed and wasn't able to move for several hours. Heat stroke, maybe? He somehow had cell reception for a few minutes and was able to phone for help, but we were miles from a road. I gave them what water I could spare, and remembered something I stored in my first aid bag for this very situation: Oral IV.

Back home, a friend gave me a bag of these small water capsules and explained that they are like an entire IV of hydration. He didn't ask me to rep the brand, but more, test it out if I, or any other hiker for that matter, was dehydrated and in a desperate situation. I certainly didn't want to be caught in that scenario, and every ounce matters out here, but I still carried one just in case. 

She downed it with a few sips of water and I went on to look for a place to pitch. An hour or two later, the couple made it to my campsite, feeling much better, and we thought it wise for her to get some rest and try to make it out in the morning. I smell a trail name: Heat Sleeper. Search and Rescue arrived near midnight. They were fantastic, helpful, kind and thorough. That was a fun wake up call (I thought they were aliens). Camping so close together, you can hear every word, and the couple explained that she felt better after taking the water capsule. Their words, not mine. I'm so happy we woke up as new friends with a memory to share, rather than anything more severe. I'm definitely going to carry a few Oral IV's with me moving forward, and hope to hell I never need to use 'em.

And Thy Name Shall Be....

We were unsuccessful hitching into the Dinsmore's Hiker Haven after our first 27 mile day and had to get creative with a truck bed sleeping arrangement. I was too tired, cold and cranky to eat that night, and had the worst night of sleep, worrying about sweet nothings. Hitching in the morning was surprisingly difficult, too. I managed to score two cold beers, a few smokes (gross), and some peanut butter Oreos before our new friend Mike offered a ride. He dropped us off at the Der Baring Store, where none other than the Dinsmore's were munching away on their Sunday breakfast. After a warm hello and smile of relief, the first thing out of my mouth was "is there anyway I can get a Bloody Mary in here?" Meanwhile, my legs were so gashed, scraped and cut up from falling on average 5 times a day, it sure looked like I could use one (or that someone had poured the red drink all over me). Right then and there, the Dinsmore's gave me my trail name. Here on out, I shall be called Bloody Mary, a name I love and take pride in.

Making it official... Jerry initiating my new name with a nice cold Bloody Mary. 

It's incredibly difficult to understand what exactly a "trail angel" is until you get to experience it first hand. I'm deeply moved, reflecting on the generosity and love I experienced from the Dinsmore's. I feel honored to be a part of the PCT community that they've supported over the years. A lifetime of gratitude sent your way, Andrea and Jerry! 

What is the Hiker Haven exactly? Well, there are warm beds for hikers, plenty of grass to set up camp if you prefer, a private laundry room with loner clothes right next to the shower and toilet fully stocked to help alleviate your hiking odors. Jerry summed it up as a spot in the mountains for resting, but it was a lot more than that to me... It was a place to call home and people to call family. I love you guys! 

Speaking of great people, I forgot to shout out Rachel and Rob over at Joe's Island Music, for helping us get back on trail after taking the wrong path near Cutthroat Pass. You guys are the best! 

Oh No, Here Comes The SNOW

Heading SOBO on the PCT, we hit the snow early in the Cascades, as opposed to where the NOBO's get it in the Sierra's. The weather has been fantastic for the most part, making snow travel manageable... even for someone like me with ZERO experience. That is, until the storm hit. It was an overcast morning with light rain to start out... we struggled to stay on trail up to Mica Lake in freezing cold, but managed to camp out before the downpour. 

Lake Mica

Thunder was a blasting and lightning was close. We were at the peak of the mountain, Ice Axes serving as the ideal electrical conductor. SHELTER IN PLACE as the hail banged us up through the branches. Julia and I camped in my tent for a good 6 hours telling stories and trying to keep our morales high before we made a run for it. Five miles later with no visibility, lost off trail, we were soaked to the bone, and my hands no longer functioned. I had to use my teeth and feet to set up tent again. It took me 40 minutes to undress and get into my dry clothes. I was shaking from the cold and the tears started to freeze on my cheek. All I wanted was my mom to tell me everything would be ok. We didn't leave our tents for the next 30 hours... only opening the fly enough for a bathroom break. The most difficult part was with the unknown. How long would this freaking storm last? Will my bag stay dry? What if I have to poop? Will I regain feeling in my fingertips? Do we have enough food to wait it out? Are we supposed to hike in these conditions? Why didn't we check the weather report before leaving Stehekin? AHHHHH!!!

Rain pants? 

Oh, there was no greater delight than the morning sun. Another lesson from the great Mother Nature: She is boss, She doesn't hold back, She will push you beyond anything you've ever imagined, but She is also kind and rewarding in the end. I am continually humbled by her. I'm thankful for that experience. It was one for the books.

Looks like we made it!

Stehekin, I Love You!

I was not a backpacker before I started this hike, but that status is changing quick. We made 110 miles in under 7 days! Stehekin was my first resupply stop and what a treat! It just so happened that we met some of the Pacific Crest Trail Association Board Members on the shuttle bus down to town and had the privilege to break bread together for supper. THANK YOU for the great meal, company, stories and smiles!!! I hope you made it up to Manning Park in time for your Board Meeting!!! Hey friends, have I mentioned I'm fundraising for that very organization? Please click here and help me meet my goal! Every dollar counts and it truly helps me feel the love and support while I'm out on the trail!

Another heartfelt thanks to Rachel, a lovely young lady who worked in town and opened her home to me for my first hot shower. I've been blessed with fantastic friends and family my entire life, but the kindness and generosity of strangers (new friends) in Stehekin has made a lasting mark on my heart. I'm starting to understand what I got myself into... a life changing experience, indeed.

Enchanted Forest

Every day, I tell myself, this is the best day of my life. Everyday, it just keeps getting better. Even the tough ones with tears, end with me feeling accomplished and excited for what comes next.

After leaving Hart's Pass, we hiked hard and long in direct sun with little water. What a delight to find a flowing creek to bathe in, wash clothes and soak up some afternoon sun. We were somewhere after Mebee Pass in Okanogan National Park and entered the "Enchanted Forest." I have a new understanding for the beauty and delicacy of ferns. It was magical. It was gorgeous. Again, it felt like the most beautiful thing I had ever seen.

We camped early and Julia built a small campfire. We both have been hiking stoveless and absolutely love it, but the best trail food to date was that hot quesadilla. As night fell, that magical forest transformed into the most terrifying pit of wilderness when we heard a wolf howl nearby in darkness. I don't care what anyone says, it was not a coyote, it was not an owl, IT WAS A WOLF and it was close. My trusty friend, the Ice Axe, did not leave my grip until sunrise. 

Yes yes yes!

Sweet Blood

I'm hiking from sunrise to sunset, treating myself to an hour break for lunch. Oh, how good it feels to take off my soggy shoes and let my feet breathe. I consider myself incredibly blessed to not have to deal with blisters, foot pain or soreness yet. HIKERS, take advice: get a pair of lightweight trail running shoes a size and a half too large and wear them for a few weeks around town before your big adventure. You'll love yourself for it. 

I haven't been as lucky with the mosquitoes, however. Those pesky buggers are demoralizing... and oh, how they love my blood. I've struggled with bug bites all my life, but it sure is something else when you've got a heavy pack on your back. I keep telling myself, it could be worse... I still have my feet, I haven't sprained or broken anything (yet), I have plenty of delicious food (thank you Monica, the best sister in the world), I have an amazing hiking partner (Julia, you inspire me), I'm seeing the most amazing sights of my life (NORTHERN CASCADES ROCK)... It could be a lot worse!

I've got alligator shoulders!

To The Border And Back

The official kick off day was postponed until July 12 to allow time for some much needed snow melt.  I started my journey with a lovely young lady and hiked 30 miles to the monument from Hart's Pass. Naturally, a hummingbird greeted me at the trail head... I miss you Mom. Thanks for showing up and sending me off. And many thanks to the love of my life for driving us up (so sorry about your flat tire returning home). The weather was great and our spirits were high... until I had my first experience with the treacherous snow crossing over Rock Pass. My new favorite possession in life is the trusty ice axe. My life flashed before my eyes as I slipped traversing a snow slope of death. I can proudly say I now know how to self belay. Julia was ahead and snapped this bad ass action shot.

Notice the aura of fear? 

This is one of the reasons why I wanted to go Southbound (SOBO), to deal with my fears and get the hard parts out of the way from the start. It's all downhill from here.

There was something magical about seeing the monument poke out of the brush on the border. It was the first time reality set in. I'm really here, on the Pacific Crest Trail, about to start my life changing journey. I still can't quite comprehend what I signed up for, but it is far more spectacular than I could have imagined.

That front-country belly is burning off!

Heading Up To Come Back Down

Goodbye California, see you in a few months! I just got off an 18 hour train to Portland. What a sweet ride... Didn't have to travel far for a Bloody Mary. Did you know they serve steak on the train and you can reserve a sleeper room??? This is my new favorite method of transport (besides backpacking, of corse). We met two lovely couples around midnight who so generously shared their cases of wine for a sunrise party on the second floor observation car. I'm trying to suck down as many calories as possible and indulge in beautiful company before I hit the trail and am left with oats in solitude. Thank you Amtrak, you are awesome! And thank you aunt Whitney for hosting us in your beautiful city. Onward to Washington.

This Month's To-Do List

1. Quit my job
2. Move my life into a storage box
3. Find a storage box
4. Pinpoint my foot hot spots
5. Figure out what a foot hot spot is and how to pinpoint it
6. Make a will (kidding)
7. Practice walking... a lot
8. Conquer fear of noise in the night
9. Learn how to pee standing up
10. Party like it's the eve of December 21st, 2012